RIBBON-WRAPPED BRIDAL BOUQUETS


One of the most popular current styles of bridal bouquets is ribbon-wrapped.  Bouquet holders are still available and are used, and cascading bouquets are still beautiful, but their usage is definitely not as prevalent as the ribbon-wrapped style.

There are many ways to create a ribbon-wrap bouquet.  You can leave some of the stems exposed, or cover them completely.   It does take quite a bit of ribbon, so make sure you have plenty of yardage before beginning so you don't run out half way through the wrap.

(photo credit:  sav-on-crafts.com)

Generally you start at the top, work your way down the stems in a spiral fashion, then go back up the stems to the top.

One option for finishing is to tie off the ribbon in a bow at the top or at the bottom of the bouquet, or use pins to create a folded design on the back of the bouquet (no one usually sees it but the bride, but at least it looks pretty) or in the front.

Green sateen ribbon with bow

 Green satin wrap with folded ribbon and ivory pearls

Be creative!  Use a variety of items to personalize the holder such as pearl pins, brooches, or buttons.  If the pearl pins are too long to insert, cut them short with wire cutters at an angle to create more of a point.

(photo credit:  sav-on-crafts.com)

(photo credit: savvybridesbymeg.blogspot.com)

With vintage weddings being a favorite, lace can be used.  Cut the lace in strips and wrap just as you would do with a ribbon.                                     

Lace wrap with ivory pearls

The ribbon can be all satin, or a mix of textures such as satin and sheer.  You can also use contrasting ribbons to make the wrap really pop!

Turquoise satin and sheer turquoise and brown ribbon with turquoise pearls

All satin ribbon under wrap with satin over wrap and silver pearls

Here's some more pictures to get your mind thinking of the possibilities.  I guess that about "wraps" it up! :)

(photo credit: keeppy.com)

Ugly Bouquets--Okay, Interesting Bouquets II

Since the last "interesting bouquet" post seemed to generate quite a bit of interest, I thought I'd offer you some additional entertainment with more pictures of the same.  Enjoy!

Who's the lucky bride...Dracula's wife?

Look everyone!  I have a big belly! ( I just didn't want you to miss it...)

Now don't get nervous, we've got the Daddy Long Legs within striking distance

If you get carried away with the garden pruners, don't worry, you can always use the trimmings in the bride's bouquet

Can't decide what I like best, the love birds on the top or the silver eye ball in the middle...

I'm going to count to three, and we'll see who can grab it first!

If the cake tastes nasty, well, there's always the bride's bouquet as a back up

Calla Lily Elegance

Standard and mini white calla lily bridal bouquet with coral hypericum berries and ribbon (source:  author)

Callas are one of the most elegant, yet simple and graceful flowers, ever created.  Though most people may only picture the color white when thinking of this popular flower, it grows in many vibrant colors reminiscent of a summer Hawaiian sunset, including orange, burgundy, pink, red, purple, yellow, white and even a near-black and a chocolate shade. These flowers are available in miniature, average, and large sizes.

Orange and yellow calla lilies (source:  callalilly-bouquets.com)

Here are some helpful steps should you choose to try growing your own spectacular callas either in pots or in the ground.  These steps to growing Calla Lilies are found on http://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Calla-Lilies

Start Calla Lilies in Pots

Pink commercially grown calla lilies (source:  callalilybulbs.com)

• Start your calla lilies from tubers or rhizomes. Although they can be started from seed, it takes a long time and calla lily seeds do not have a high germination rate.
• Plant the dormant tubers in 6 to 8-inch (15 to 20 cm) pots a few weeks before the last frost is expected in your area. If you live in a warm climate or the threat of frost has already passed, you can plant the tubers directly in the garden.  Bury the tubers 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) below the surface of the soil.
• Place the pots in a sunny window. Keep the soil moist until the plants begin growing and it is time to put them in the garden or transplant them into larger containers.

Plant Calla Lilies Outside

Outside plantings of calla lilies (source: callalilybulbs.com)

• Choose an outdoor location that gets partial sun and retains moisture if you live in a hot climate. Pick an area with full sun and moisture if you live in a cooler region
• Prepare the soil for the calla lilies. Till the ground before planting and enrich the soil with organic mulch to help it retain moisture. This is especially important if you have rocky or sandy soil.  
• Transplant the started plants or tubers into the ground once there is no threat of frost.  Space the plants at least 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Some calla lilies grow as tall as 4 feet (1.2 m) with a leaf spread of 1 foot (30 cm) or more.
• Water the plants well and keep the soil moist throughout the growing season.
• Fertilize the flowers regularly using a water-soluble general plant fertilizer. You may need to fertilize more than normal when the plants are forming their flowers.
• Stop watering and feeding the plants at the end of the growing season. This allows the soil to dry out and the plants to die off. Even if you live in a warm climate, calla lilies need to go into a period of winter dormancy to bloom again the following year.
• Dig the calla lilies out of the ground before the first frost if you live in a cool climate. Grab the plant close to ground and rock it back and forth until the soil around the base loosens, then carefully pull the tuber from the ground.
• Sift through the soil with your hands or turn it carefully with a hand shovel to find any small tubers that formed underground but didn't have time to grow a plant.
• Cut all remaining plant material from the tubers, then lay them in the sun to dry for a few days.
• Store the tubers in dry peat moss inside a paper bag. Keep them at 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 C).
• Break clusters apart into single tubers before planting them in the spring.

Grow Calla Lilies in Containers

Potted calla lilies (source: canadiangardencentre.ca)

• Start your dormant tubers in 16-inch (40 cm) pots or larger, if you want to grow the flowers in containers. Although the calla lily's root system does not spread out much, using a large pot helps the soil to stay moist and allows enough space for the tubers to spread and make additional plants.
• Use a potting soil with an organic mulch base or enrich the soil with organic matter before planting.
• Keep the containers indoors. Calla lilies do well as floor plants near large windows or glass doors where they get plenty of sunlight.
• Move the plants outside after all signs of frost have passed if you want to grow them outdoors in planters. Calla lilies grown in planters make nice additions to gardens, patios, porches and decks.
• Water the plants regularly and make sure the soil stays moist. Plants grown in containers dry out more quickly than those that grow in the ground.
• Fertilize potted calla lilies with an all-purpose plant fertilizer when flower buds first develop on the plants.
• Stop watering and feeding the plants at the end of the growing season to allow them to go into dormancy.
• Cut the plants to ground level and bring the pots back inside for the winter if you live in a cool weather climate. Store the pots in a cool, dark area that doesn't get colder than 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.4 C). Or, you can dig the tubers out of their pots and store them in peat moss for the winter.

Cautions
    * Calla lilies are frequently hosts to spider mites. If you see webbing on the leaves, hose the plant off with a strong spray of water and then spray the plant with a solution of water and dish soap.

Caring for cut calla lilies in bouquets

• Most colored callas are shipped already opened.  However, the large callas are often harvested and shipped partially closed, and may take 1-3 days to fully open.  

Cut white calla lilies (source:  callalily.org)

• Avoid touching the flower heads.
• Put flowers in a clean bucket with clean, cool water with flower food (or 3-4 tablespoons of a clear soda beverage).  Place bucket in a dim, cool room (65-72 degrees F*) to allow them to condition for about 6 hours.
• If stems have been out of water for more than 20 minutes, recut about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the stem at an angle (the slanted cut allows for maximum water intake) with a sharp knife or pruners to allow the flower to take up fresh water.
• For large callas, keep the bucket full.  For mini calls, keep about 2 inches of water in the bucket.Be cautious of storing your cut callas in the refrigerator.  Refrigerators filled with food produce ethylene gas which will dramatically reduce the vase life of your calla lily. 
• To avoid too much of a curved stem, wrap stems with twine or ribbon to keep them more straight during the conditioning phase. 
• Callas stems can drip after being arranged into hand held bouquets (such as bridal bouquets).  To avoid dripping on fabric (or worse yet, a bridal gown), allow stems to be out of water for about 30 minutes prior to being held.

 

Mini white calla lily bouquet (source: author)

•  If making a vase arrangement, change the water every other day to keep callas fresh (don't forget to add more flower food each time you change the water).

Cally lily vase arrangement (source:  ftd.com)

Flower Bulb Care and Tips

Bulbs are one of nature's little care packages filled with wonder and surprise.  A gardener can plop some bulbs in the ground and in just a few months, up pops a colorful masterpiece.  Then what?  Here's a few tips on care of bulbs so that they can reward you with years of eye candy (assuming the kids and the wildlife don't ruin them first):

Bulb planting charts
 (bhg.com)

When planting bulbs, follow depth instructions on the package.  It's always better to turn over a mound of soil when planting, then add soil amendments if necessary, rather then just digging up a little dish full with your hand shovel that's just barely big enough for the bulb to squeeze into.  Give those tender little roots a chance rather than making them struggle to grow in hard, dry, never-before-touched-by-humankind-soil.

Various bulb sizes 
 (alinthegarden.co.uk)

Though not really necessary, you can give newly planted bulbs a sprinkle of bulb food or bone meal by placing it in the planting hole prior to placing the bulb.  If it makes you feel better, go for it.  But when the bulbs arrive at your home for planting, they generally have been well fed and are ready without needing a "bedtime" snack.  Water well after planting and before the ground freezes.

Masses of bulbs planted in color blocks
 (flowerbulbsgarden.com)

For a more spectacular show, don't plant bulbs in a row like little tin soldiers.  Plant them in clusters of 15 or 25 for smaller bulbs, and groups of 5-10 for larger bulbs.  We're going for drama here!

Young green spring bulb sprouts
 (b.love2bnmaine.com)

If you live in a dry climate that doesn't get a boost of spring rain, you'll have to provide the watering services.  This is especially true when little green sprouts appear indicating that the bulb is awake.  A good soak a few times a week should suffice.

Spring bulb bouquet with daffodils
 (oldhousegardens.com)

After the flowers appear, and you start to dream of making a bouquet, keep a few things in mind before you go clipper-happy.  While cutting some greenery from the bulb plant to accompany the flower stem is fine, don't cut too much or all of it.  That greenery will play an important role before the plant goes dormant.

Tulip bulb seed pods
 (greenwalks.wordpress.com)

After the flower fades, don't allow the seed pod to form, by cutting off the dead flower stem.  Growing and nurturing the seed pod will take away valuable nutrients from next year's flowers. 

As the flower begins to fade and the lone greenery is left, please resist the temptation to chop it all down like a crew-cut so that you can plant your summer annuals.  Here is why:  as the bulb moves into dormancy, the greenery slowly dies.  But as it dies, critical nutrients are being pulled down into the bulb to provide it the 'umph' to grow again next spring.  If there is no greenery, there are no nutrients.  This move into dormancy is a good time to give your bulbs another shot of bulb food (which is what the grower did before sending it to you or the store).  Bulbs need yearly feeding to stay productive and happy.  General rule of thumb:  when you can pull off the foliage without any resistance, it's safe to remove it.

Mother bulbs with baby bulblets 
 (landspro.com)

With each passing year, when taken care of properly, bulbs will grow little baby bulbs.  They start out small, about the size of a pea, then continue to grow and mature.  This is why a dozen daffodils planted in one year can produce a hundred daffodils in the years to come.  Some bulbs are better at reproducing than other bulbs.  Growing conditions can also make a difference--too much summer water can mildew and rot dormant bulbs in the ground.

Thanksgiving Point Gardens, Lehi, Utah
(makeitworkmom.com)

For maximum bloom performance, grounds of commercial gardens and buildings generally plant new bulbs each year, and often will sell the used bulbs to the public at a significant price savings.  It doesn't mean the bulb won't perform the next year, it just means the commercial establishment can't take a chance on a lackluster performance in their garden beds the following year and they can afford to do a complete overhaul.  But the home gardener often doesn't mind taking the risk or waiting out the dying foliage...just don't forget to feed them as mentioned earlier.

As the foliage dies, an occasional watering is a good idea.  This enables the bulb food that you've placed on the ground and worked into the top inch or so of soil, to be fully dissolved and absorbed into the soil.

Gladiolus
 (edenbrothers.com)

Keep in mind that bulbs don't just bloom in the spring, such as tulips, daffodils, crocus, and iris.  Research all the varieties of summer blooming bulbs as well, such as asiatic lilies, gladiolus, allium, dahlias (which are technically tubers), and many others.  The same care instructions apply to all bulbs.

Just one more thing, please, oh please, do not plant the bulbs upside down...the poor things already have to work so hard to grow.  Remember, it's pointed end up!

Color Combinations using the Color Wheel

A flower color wheel (photo credit: hgtv.com)

There are many factors that play a role in creating a beautiful piece of living or silk art.  Size, shape, texture, form, and others.  But perhaps one of the more obvious factors is color, which is probably noticed by the untrained eye before most other factors.  Color has the power to relax or excite.  Sometimes we can be bothered by looking at something, or by being in a particular location, and not realize that we're bothered because the colors we are viewing or are surrounded by are arguing with each other.  Who wants to get caught in the middle of that argument?

By being aware of a few basic color principles, it becomes much easier to put flowers together that get along with each other.  So get ready for your science lesson for today!

(graphic source: silk-flower-smart.com)

Here are some examples of the above principles shown in arrangements I've made.  Notice that you can use a hue or tint of a true color shade and still have the colors work together, such as using a shade of purple instead of true blue, or a darker orange to go with yellow.

 Monochromatic

Analogous

Complementary

Triad

So where does the color white fit in to all this color wheel talk?  You may have noticed that white isn't on the wheel.  White can be a color that intensifies the other colors placed with it, or it can be a total distraction.  Although it can technically "match" any color, sometimes it's best to use a shade of cream rather than a pure white.

White used to intensify

No white used

That's probably enough science for one day.  But here's two more pieces of free, unsolicited color advice.  One:  if it's a color combination you wouldn't be caught dead wearing, chances are it's not going to look good in a flower arrangement either.  Two:  if you're having a hard time choosing colors for an event such as a wedding, go stand in front of the paint chips at a paint store.  You can mix and match to your heart's content until it looks and feels right to you (and the color wheel is happy).  Then you can give the final choice paint chips to wedding party members or planners so they don't have to guess just exactly what you mean by "soft blue".

Ugly Bouquets--Okay, Interesting Bouquets

Thought I'd have a little afternoon detour and find some pictures of what I will call "interesting" bouquets and arrangements.  I realize beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder, but maybe sometimes the beholder needs glasses.  I readily admit that some of my own creations would never win the blue ribbon at the county fair.  However, a peek at some of the pictures I came across didn't exactly make me think..."Awe, the art of flower arranging!"  Creativity comes in all shapes and sizes, and apparently so does personal interpretation of beauty.  (And just so there's no question...NO, I did not make any of the arrangements pictured in this post!)

Latest trend to keep bouquets looking fresh; use metal flowers...in every color
 

 When all else fails, use all of Grandma's jewelry when you can't find the right flowers

 Not sure what happened here

Greenery, greenery anyone?  How about at least some water?

Blue roses are bad enough, but cupcake blue roses are even worse

That's quite the little arm sculpture there

Careful...careful...don't trip on the ribbon...move over everyone, here comes the bride's bouquet!

Did the cake really have to have all the leftover wedding flowers on top of it?

It's a spider, it's a creature, it's a bouquet that fell on it's head, it's a...well, I'll just leave it at that